Last Wednesday, Greg, Rima (the daughter of Armine my tutor who works with me on the project) and I were in recognition for website Information Center Stepanavan. Our mission: to make us Alaverdi and specifically Sanahin , a small corn on hand to see his monastery, take pictures and come back in a hurry. a complex and dangerous task but essential for the proper conduct of the events.
For those who want to go to Alaverdi, there are a couple things to know before.
First, about the journey that is by bus, the Armenian mythology tells us that the distance between this city Stepanavan is only two hours. So here I will correct these sacred stories to tell you the truth, sad truth: count rather 2:30 or even three hours away.
And what a ride! Space Mountain, Armenian version. So the second thing to know ... Prepare your stomach and your spine. Bumps, potholes (but chickens special kind of 25 kilos of chicken given the size nests ...), turns and other landslides ... we will remember.
The third thing to know about Alaverdi therefore, is that this is a city that during Soviet times was heavily industrialized. In the middle of this one, stands a huge factory (it is actually a copper smelter), which like almost all of its congeners, pollutes a lot. It is also very very ugly. I invite you to check out this article edifying about malformations in newborns in Armenia due to pollution. I reproduce it against a party without, of course, inform the author ... of course:
"The copper smelter is the only ACP yet office, and employs 500 people. Before independence, it employed ten times more. The plant was closed in 1989 due to the collapse of the Soviet Union and environmental problems. It was reopened in 1996. Today it operates at half capacity, according to Andranik Gambarian, spokesman for the Armenian Copper Program Alaverdi foundry.
The explanation of health problems suffered by residents of this small town is clear to environmentalists and health professionals: the foundry. Dioxide Sulfuric is rejected by the 100-meter high chimney and trees, shrubs, vegetation in the vicinity are all stunted These experts note that the archives of the Ministry of Health does not mention any abnormalities at birth for 1992 When the smelter was not operating, but in 2001, 28 cases of malformations were recorded and in 2004, 107 cases were recorded.
The foundry management says there is no proven direct link between health problems and smoke emissions from the plant. "We can not deny that there are emissions of smoke, but they are safe. People are spreading rumors out of jealousy, because the plant employs fewer than ten times before and many people are unemployed, "said spokesman Gambarian."
But do not panic! Apparently patterns of the plant have found the solution to these pollution problems. According to Naira's friend Greg, a decision was made to "divert the smoke" from the smelter. A very wise decision, is not it ?
night fell suddenly, we took refuge in Naira, who speaks perfect English (she is a linguist), but also French. She explained that she learned only six months. So I know how to go about the Armenian ... Ya the job.
I take a break from shopping to buy beer and take this picture of the Pork Butcher's corner at work:
In Naira, we are greeted by her parents strong sympathetic . After some dolma, two or three vodkas house that his father makes the sly and a little wine ... Inspiration came to me. Some pictures of his apartment for the curious among you:
a cigarette break to admire the scenery ... How beautiful all these lighted windows ... dozens of lives other than mine that are plotted behind the curtains ...
I take the absence of some drowsiness and other cases to the magic square to continue my taff. On the tube, it broadcasts a Russian incomprehensible, image-based trials, people who shout and lie even more Eric Besson when he removes the Jungle Calais ... In short, a practical program for soporific sleep and more efficient than Temesta.
The next day we went to Sanahin, but this part of the trip will be a future post so I zap. Luckily, I have a remote control at your fingertips.
The time of return approaches ... Greg and I are willing to kill for a beer now ... I can save someone's life by giving me a small stall near the bus that will take us back to my hut.
The driver buddy buddy with us and we pay the sourdj . It can not refuse. We file same candy and chips for the return. Nice. According to him, Charles Aznavour is part of his family. At this stage of the journey, I am willing to believe as long as it takes us back to living Stepanavan.
He explains also that the bus is only 30 years of loyal service in the tires. Given mouth of the gear, I lean towards the hundred years packed ... but do not get upset our friend.
Before leaving, the last three shots including one especially reminds me of the book title of the enormous photographer what Antoine Agoudjian: burning eyes.
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